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Introduction:
With the Portuguese Automatic the splendid hand-made 5000 automatic
movement - to date the largest one of its kind on the world market - has
been adapted for more delicate wrists and at the same time shed some
weight. Whilst retaining the classical appearance of the legendary
original Portuguese first made in the 1930s, with its appliquéd Arabic
numerals, railway-style minute chapter ring and slim, swallow-style hands,
IWC's designers have equipped it with all the features you would expect to
find united in a high-performance mechanical wristwatch: the patented
Pellaton winding system and the exclusive mechanism with its eminently
legible date display. Together with other new and more advanced features
such as the convex, coated sapphire glass, the two-piece case or the new
back with its screw thread and sapphire glass, the Portuguese Automatic is
the watch that would be developed in Schaffhausen if those two Portuguese
businessmen dropped in today with a request for an unusually large and
precise wristwatch.
 two IWC Portuguese left: 1993 reference 5441 right: vintage reference
325, ca. 1943 |
 IWC
caliber 97 (lepine variant of C98) 37.8 x
4mm |
The watch: reference 5001 Portuguese Automatic
The IWC Ref. 5001 is a watch that at first glance could not be more
straightforward in design and execution: a 'pocket watch for the wrist' in
the great tradition of the Portuguese line, it's a very large, heavy,
'statement' watch with bold simple lines and a caseback affording a view
of what is now, and for the foreseeable future, the largest automatic
caliber in the world. And yet, under prolonged exposure, certain aspects
of the watch begin to move to the foreground- qualities which, as we shall
see, raise interesting questions about not only the Ref. 5001 itself, but
about the direction in which modern wristwatch aesthetics and engineering
are progressing in general.
The IWC Portuguese Automatic Ref. 5001 is the latest entry from IWC in
the Portuguese series of wristwatches, which now features a full range of
complications, including a chronograph, rattrapante chronograph, minute
repeater, tourbillon, and a striking and dramatic perpetual
calendar.
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 IWC reference 5000, introduced in
2000 (1.000 pieces in steel, 750 in rosé gold, 250 in
Platinum)
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The Ref. 5001 contains the
automatic IWC Cal. 50010, which is the most recent iteration of the
original cal. 5000, introduced to the Portuguese line in 2000 as a
limited edition, and then used in the Big Pilot's Watch Ref. 5002, a
watch which has become something of a touchstone for IWC's
subsequent philosophy in design. The Big Pilot's Watch is not so
much iconic for later designs in a strictly literal sense, but it
represents a strong commitment to both history, and to the notion of
'doing things big'- of making watches that both embody and to some
degree transcend the prioritizing of functionality that has, for
some time now, been IWC's stock in trade. These two poles of
expression are both spectacularly on display in the limited edition
version of the Ref. 5001, which consists of 500 examples in a
solid-very solid- platinum case. |
Indeed, the sheer size of the watch is the first thing one notices, for
the IWC Portuguese Automatic Limited Edition looms large, both to the eye
and on the wrist. This is not a watch that hides its light under a bushel-
at 13.9 mm in height and 42.3 mm in diameter not only won't it fit under a
shirtsleeve, it probably won't even fit under a jacket sleeve. Clearly,
however, the Ref. 5001 is not intended to peek discreetly out from under a
cuff- it's impossible to ignore for both observer and wearer, and at 138
grammes in platinum, a constant reminder of not only the weight of IWC's
horological history, but of weight, period.
The case itself (and indeed, as we shall see the
entire watch) is a mixture of overwhelming substance with strangely
delicate, almost ethereal execution. The bezel has a mirror finished,
carefully radiused concave flank, with a sharp edge transitioning to a
flat mirror finished top. The body of the case is finished with a vertical
brushing, and while the mirror finishing of the bezel gives a beautiful
effect in combination with the long graceful hands, it may tend to pick up
scratches rather quickly in every day use- the more so due to the sharp
angle between the curve and flat top and the height of the watch itself.
The silvered dial is extraordinarily beautiful, without sacrificing any
of the functionality that is IWC's trademark, and the pragmatic, slightly
technical, yet elegant execution is rounded out with meticulously done
applied numerals and bar markers at the hours, with a railroad minute
chapter. The long leaf hands are beautifully formed and the large diameter
of the dial really gives them room to stretch out; the two subdials for
the small seconds and the power reserve articulate the surface of the dial
without overwhelming it.
One of the most wonderful aspects of this watch is the attention to
detail of the dial; the hands for both the power reserve and small seconds
are carefully finished, with curved surfaces that, like the larger hour
and minute hands, scatter the incident light and provide much better
legibility against the white dial than could be afforded by flat hands.
Under virtually all lighting conditions the time is instantly readable-
contrasting blued steel hands such as those offered on the steel version
would marginally enhance utility as well as help relieve, at least to some
degree, the starkness of the dial which is its only drawback, but taken on
their own, the beauty of the platinum hands is inarguably appealing.
Sticklers for maximum legibility might complain of the absence of luminous
material, but it seems quite clear that such an addition would violate the
intended aesthetics of the dial to quite an objectionable degree.
The dial, in fact, is aesthetically faithful to the original Portuguese
watch, almost to the letter, and at least based on the dial the ref. 5001
would be instantly recognizable to Rodriguez and Teixeira, the two
Portuguese gentlemen who commissioned the original, were they to walk into
IWC's atelier tomorrow looking for additions to their collection.
However, the dial is also, the longer one examines it, a bit
disquieting. The taper of the hands is almost feminine in quality, and it
is here that the watch actually begins, for me, to exhibit a certain
conflict of design cues- the delicacy of the dial seems very much at odds
with the severe lines and sheer physical bulk of the case. There's a broad
shouldered machismo to the case dimensions that seems oddly discordant
with the reserved formality of the dial; as if one had decorated a
tank-turret with a tea-cosy.
The movement: IWC caliber 50010 Automatic Movement
 IWC caliber 50010
Through the sapphire caseback- a gleaming thick affair with the
slightly intimidating presence of a bank teller's bulletproof glass
window- one can view the cal. 50010. The cal. 50010 is not merely a watch
movement but also a piece of kinetic sculpture, designed to exhibit the
action of the Pellaton winding system, famously described by eminent
British horological writer Donald de Carle as 'a simple and ingenious
system, well constructed and beautifully finished.'
Unlike earlier
IWC movements using the Pellaton winding system, such as the famous cal.
8541 which found a home in, among others, the Ingenieur series of
wristwatches, the cal. 50010 uses a rotor with two large cut-outs,
allowing a more unobstructed view of the mechanism. The Pellaton winding
system is one of my favorite designs; the sheer elegance of its conception
and execution exert an undeniable charm not to be found in many other
automatic calibers using conventional reverser wheel arrangements. The
massive rotor turns a heart cam that operates two pawl levers via separate
ruby rollers, which alternately idle on or gear to an intermediate wheel
with angled, straight cut teeth that then winds the mainspring barrel via
reduction gearing. Not only is the system a spectacularly elegant
mechanical solution to the problem of bidirectional winding, which is in
my opinion unparalleled for sheer creativity, it also avoids the use of
the often small, complex, and trouble-prone reverser wheels that can be
the Achilles' heel of other automatic systems.
 crystal back and rotor
The massiveness of the rotor is potentially problematic as
it is carried on a small diameter steel pin riding in a jewel set in the
rotor itself; the issue of side load during a sudden impact, however, is
somewhat mitigated through the expedient of mounting the entire rotor
mechanism on its own shock spring, one of the few instances of a shock
protected winding rotor of which I am aware in either a vintage or modern
movement. The use of such a small central bearing, albeit a jeweled one,
for such a large rotor may prove to be an issue over the very long term as
the side-load of the rotor mass is distributed over a very small surface,
however the extent to which this may present an issue in actual daily use
is less clear.
 rotor mounting
 rotor bearing, back view
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 IWC Pellaton
winding IWC publication, 1950´s
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Not coincidentally, the
action of the Pellaton winding system is very beautiful to watch,
and owners of the IWC Portuguese Automatic may very well find
themselves spending more time with the watch off the wrist than on,
the better to admire it. Overall the rest of the movement exhibits
the careful, largely functionally oriented finish for which IWC is
known, with a resolute refusal to indulge in the pyrotechnic visual
effects for which other manufacture movements strive. The result is
a mechanism that revels in its machineness, in the sheer kinesthetic
appeal of mechanics itself. In such a movement, beauty is to be
found not in the prima donna articulation of every visual surface,
but in the visible integrity of function expressed in the most
appropriate form. |
 IWC Pellaton winding, caliber 50010
The escapement of the cal. 50010 is, according to IWC,
"identical" to that found in the famous IWC manual wind movement cal. 89;
there is a two armed, screwed, uncut monometallic balance wheel featuring,
in addition to the rim screws, two flat, eccentric meantime screws mounted
on either arm; the latter allow for very fine adjustment of rate. There is
also a conventional regulator index with micrometric regulator mounted
above the overcoil hairspring, as well as an adjustable stud carrier. The stud
carrier, like the index, is moved by an eccentric screw, which allows for
very fine adjustment of beat; a very nice and noteworthy technical refinement.
Theoretically speaking, the use of a completely freesprung balance, in
which there is no index at all and final adjustment of rate is done by
adjustment of the meantime screws, offers the possibility of greater
stability of rate over the long term. However, one cannot fault IWC for
using both the index and meantime screws together. Historically, this
combination was used in many extremely high grade watches, and offers the
potential for extremely fine adjustments to isochronism. Either option in
conjunction with an overcoil hairspring can offer exceedingly refined
performance and ultimately the issue is decided by the degree of care to
which the individual watch is adjusted, rather than by the presence or
absence of an index per se. IWC has an excellent reputation for taking
care in the adjustment of its watches, which routinely exceed COSC
standards, so the owner of a Portuguese Ref. 5001 may be confident that
the watch will fulfill in performance the standards promised by its
history and design.
 a nice detail: IWC caliber 50010 case clamp: A well tested and
elaborate construction, proven in vintage counterparts; it allows the
clamp to slide without need to remove both screws, which prevents
from parts getting lost.
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IWC´s earlier movements
like C89, as well as the older pocket movements C74 and C98, were
equipped with moveable hairspring stud carriers. The early automatic
movements like C85 and IWC´s first ultra-thin movement C401 relied
on a fixed hairspring stud and a swan neck fine regulator. The use
of eccentric screws is not unknown; with the increasing use of thin
movements, utilizing a flat hairspring with eccentric regulator
screws became common practice. Thus the C50010 combines the best
of both.
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clockwise
from upper left: 1 vintage IWC caliber 89 2 IWC caliber
50010 3 vintage IWC caliber 402 4 vintage IWC caliber 401 5
vintage IWC caliber 89 (side view) |
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Visually, the balance is on its own satisfyingly large,
however it is somewhat overwhelmed by the size of the movement overall. It
is, however, nicely echoed by the gold medallion, carrying the IWC logo,
which forms part of the winding rotor.
 IWC caliber 50010, dial
side
On the dial side, the movement offers finish consistent with
the visible portion; there is a non-instantaneous date change mechanism in
which the hour wheel, through an intermediate gear, turns a date wheel
with a spring-loaded arm that once a day engages the teeth on the inner
rim of the date ring. This spring loaded arm is gradually compressed by
the date ring, which is fixed in place by a jumper under pressure from a
spring. The arm eventually stores enough energy to defeat the jumper and
the date ring moves forward one increment, freeing the spring loaded arm
on the date wheel from its engagement with the date ring and allowing the
nose of the jumper to re-engage. This straightforward and reliable
mechanism is made even more attractive by the beautifully formed steel
jumper spring, where many movements use a simple and cheaper wire spring.
It's very reminiscent of the style of springs used in many vintage pocket
watch movements, and it is always delightful to see such unnecessary
exercise of traditional craft, especially in a part of the movement
usually visible only to the watchmaker.
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 IWC power reserve -
planetary gear drive
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One final feature worthy
of note: the mainspring of the cal. 50010 carries a theoretical
power reserve of eight days, but the watch will run for only seven
days on a full wind. At the end of the seven day period, a stop
mechanism engages the balance. This is intended to ensure
isochronism for the entire operating period; modern mainsprings
deliver fairly consistent power over most of their power curve but
the last part of the power reserve often produces a significantly lower balance amplitude, to some
degree, and in giving a watch with a functional seven day reserve an
actual eight day reserve, this problem is minimized. The alert owner
may thus manually wind the watch to store power if he or she wishes
to do so as the end of the reserve is approached, whilst at the same
time resting assured that the mainspring is delivering power
consistently across the entire functional operating
curve. |
The extremely long, powerful Nivaflex-1 mainspring is housed
within a barrel made of anodized aluminum, in which a thin surface layer
of aluminum oxide provides internal lubrication. An interesting historical
note is that it is theoretically possible to use the same arrangement of
planetary gears which activate the stop mechanism to also lock the rotor
when the mainspring is fully wound. Historically this was a feature of
other automatic winding movements, including the Felsa cal. 1565
"Inversator" and the Jaeger LeCoultre "Futurematic" cal. 497. In the
vintage IWC calibers 74 and 98 (cal. 74 was the first used in a Portuguese
watch), winding was stopped by a Maltese cross stopworks, the purpose of
which is to prevent the mainspring from being wound through its final
turn. This prevents excess friction between the coils from causing
anisochronism during the first part of the power reserve. While a Maltese
cross stopworks is probably not practical on an automatic movement, the
use of a locking rotor would have been both a technically and historically
interesting additional refinement that would have increased the sense of
functional continuity between the cal. 50010 and the manually wound pocket
watch movements used in the original Portuguese watches.
I am as divided in my own personal reactions to the IWC ref.
5001 as I have ever been about a wristwatch. I feel a very strong
attraction in principle to the notion of a 'pocket watch for the wrist'
and yet, that is not, really, what the ref. 5001 is. The original
Portuguese watches were based on the IWC cal. 98, a relatively flat
savonette caliber which allowed for a thin although very wide (42mm)
watch, and the noticeable thickness and weight of the platinum limited
edition ref. 5001 make it a much more difficult watch to wear than a
thinner watch would be. There is, at least for me, considerable
proprioceptive discomfort associated with actually having this watch on
the wrist; the mass constantly pulls at the center of gravity of the
forearm producing a subtle but persistent and ultimately disturbing
sensation. This is, I suspect, partly due to the weight of the watch but
even more due to its height, which displaces the center of gravity of the
arm to which it's strapped just enough to be persistently noticeable.
 IWC caliber 50010,
rotor removed
To some degree this issue might be minimized by the use of a
thicker strap. The black crocodile strap and platinum, single-fold
deployant provided with the watch exude quality but the strap is perhaps
too thin for such a robust and heavy case. While the strap is quite
formal, the dimensions of the watch seem to call for a padded strap more
along the lines of that used on the Big Pilot's watch- though such a strap
might undermine the undoubted elegance of the Portuguese it might also go
a long way towards obviating the nagging feeling that the massive case
calls for a strap to match. However, it's hard to take issue with the
impressive visual impact of the strap and watch taken together.
One
can't really object to the notion of an automatic pocket watch per se- no
less a luminary than Breguet (among others) made self-winding
pocketwatches, so there is a precedent- but in terms of finding a
rationale for size and height in its actual design lineage I personally
find it hard to ignore the feeling that to some degree, this is a watch
which is big merely for the sake of being big. The idiom of pocket watch
design is slightly undermined, I feel, by the use of a caliber which
derives so much of its basic engineering from movements designed for
wristwatches. The combination of the two is to me somewhat unsatisfying
and I found myself wishing, despite the impressive qualities of the
movement in the ref. 5001 taken on its own, that the Portuguese series
were based on the savonette pocket watch movements that IWC still has in
production. I feel I should admit that the exaggerated size of the cal.
50010 is for some reason much less bothersome to me in the context of the
Big Pilot's Watch, which seems sufficiently clear in its historical
antecedents to plausibly support the use of an oversized automatic
caliber, but the ref. 5001, at least to my taste, is not as successful at
reconciling the lineage of the original, manually wound Portuguese watches
with their modern descendant. As a result, despite the many laudable
individual components,I found the ref. 5001 taken as a whole to exhibit a
certain sterility- the gorgeous dial and the wonderful movement existing
in splendid isolation from each other, as if the height of the watch were
an unbridgeable distance in not only physical but aesthetic space as
well.
On the contra side of the argument, it is worth noting that
in the development of caliber 5000 and 50010, IWC appears to have
deliberately set out to advance and expand the design idiom of the
Portuguese watches, rather than simply repeat the execution of the
historical cal. 74 and 98 watches, no matter how timelessly elegant these
may have been. The incorporation of the Pellaton winding system into a 17
ligne "pocket watch for the wrist" represents a clear attempt to link, in
a single design, two distinguished but heretofore distinct elements in the
history of IWC: a manually wound pocket chronometer cased as a wristwatch,
which alludes not only to the marine chronometer tradition but also to the
famous IWC B-Uhr and its descendant, the Big Pilot's Watch, with the
separate history of elegant automatic wristwatches represented by the cal.
8541. In a very real sense this is a sophisticated integration of
aesthetic and engineering which will offer real appeal to the serious IWC
enthusiast with a knowledge of the company's history. The risk, of course,
is that the referencing of so many design cues may produce incoherence
rather than depth, and it's by no means an easy feat to execute.
However, these personal reservations will not, I expect,
diminish the joy that IWC enthusiasts feel in the new presentation of the
Portuguese line. My own few personal reservations aside, as large
wristwatches go there's no doubt that objectively the ref. 5001 offers
much; a dial with few rivals in elegant and meticulous execution and a
movement which is absolutely unique in modern production- the largest
automatic movement in the world, which, however it may or may not respect
practicality in terms of sheer size, offers an experience of a kind of
horological kinetic sculpture that would be difficult to find anywhere
else. And of course, it has always been to IWC's considerable credit that
in their largest watches, they use a movement that is actually an
appropriate size for the case!
At the beginning I commented that the ref. 5001
raises interesting questions about the direction modern wristwatch design
and aesthetics are headed, and in some ways, I feel that the gradual
disconnect between practical necessity and actual execution that has
occurred in mechanical watches, perhaps driven by the unquestioned
superiority of quartz timekeepers, has repositioned mechanical watches in
a way that fetishizes mechanical integrity- that is to say, isolates it as
an aspect of the experience and threatens to make it simply another
display aspect of the watch. Whether or not any manufacture really
succeeds in truly respecting pragmatic mechanical integrity, and, more
importantly, whether it can do so in the context of useful innovation, is
an interesting critical perspective from which to examine not only the
ref. 5001 but any modern luxury watch, where the display and visual
aspects enormously inform design. The IWC ref. 5001 is, to my way of
thinking, not only intended to embody values such as historicity and
mechanical integrity, but also to display them, to broadcast the wearer's
endorsement of those values. The risk is always, of course, that the
display may actually undermine the very values it seeks to signal. How
well the ref. 5001 balances these two sometimes conflicting priorities
must be left to the taste of the individual, but at the very least, one
can say that the Portuguese Limited Edition wouldn't even raise the
question if it didn't have a very strong, and in many ways very
impressive, character of its own.
I am indebted to Michael Friedberg, the moderator of the
Official IWC Forum, for his many valuable articles on the history of IWC
and especially the Portuguese line. I am also grateful to ThePuristS.com
technical staff for their corrections and input. All opinions expressed
are of course, mine alone, as are any errors.
Jack Forster |