PATEK PHILIPPEThis year the designers at Patek Philippe got everything 100% right. All their new models were aesthetically quite attractive. Let’s start with the one piece which is a true novelty: the ref 5135 an annual calendar with moonphase and 24 hour indications also called the Gondolo Calendario. This is a timepiece I found quite unattractive in pictures but which looks quite nice in real. The case which is halfway between a tonneau and a TV screen sits perfectly well on the wrist and is big enough to enable the different indications to be perfectly legible and leave the dial uncluttered.
The Gondolo Calendario, which by the way is the very first complication ever in a Gondolo case, leaves me somewhat scratching my head…it is a beautiful watch especially the WG model with the slate grey dial but quite different to the designs Patek Philippe has habituated us. The ref 5135 however, also is not only a pretty face but also comes with a new movement which took almost three years to develop: Cal 324, this new caliber has a new gyromax balance with 4 arms enabling a better and easier adjusting. The true novelty however is the use of gears which have a new “teeth” shape created by the watchmakers at Patek Philippe, the teeth are sharper and suffer less friction.
The next model took my breath away: the 5970, a 40mm perpetual calendar chronograph with square pushers reminiscent of the gorgeous ref 2499. A superb piece which will replace the 3970 by end of 2004. Even though the case size is 4mm bigger than the 3970 (both using the same movement) all the indications do not seem to be gathered at the center of the dial. I love this watch it looks gorgeous, the case size is perfect, it is elegant and already a classic.
Patek Philippe make in my opinion the nicest perpetual calendars available. Where everyone else is adding gimmicks on the dial, they keep their pieces clean and legible…and I am sure that the 5079 will become an instant success, especially since the retail price is about the same as the 3970!! .
Four new Calatrava models were presented in new 37 mm cases (thank you Patek Philippe for not having fallen in the trap of offering dress watches of 40mm or more like many of your rival brands…). This new Ref 5196 (with cal 214 PS) will replace the ref 3796. The gold models are very inspired by PP’s ref 96 models dating from the 50s and the gorgeous platinum model with two tone dial and Breguet numerals is inspired from a timepiece dating from the 30s and which can be found in the Patek Philippe Museum. Superb watches in their simplicity. The platinum model is on my Basel 2004 wish list!!
The other 2004 Patek Philippe novelties are:
We left the Patek booth, turned left and entered the realm of Swatch Group which have all their brands regrouped in the center of the main hall, to meet up with Emmanuel Breguet direct descendant of the father of modern horology and our guide for the new Breguet pieces. BREGUETThis year Breguet was having a change of image by presenting a new, more modern Marine series targeting a younger clientele. Breguet obviously put a lot of effort into designing these models and this can be seen in the new heavy case with the long lugs beveled at the ends, the beautiful guilloche dial with big date and the wave like guillochage on the rotor. The steel model with rubber strap (the buckle is really neat) is quite appealing and would look good on any wrist this summer…shame that the watch will be only available starting October! The only negative aspect of this watch is in fact the tritium on the typical Breguet hands, just doesn’t fit well in my opinion.
The new Perpetual Calendar with moonphase and power reserve indicator is typical Breguet. The moon is hidden behind a cloud-like guillochage on the dial. The watch is everything but legible.
A new Regulateur model inspired by a limited jubilee edition Breguet had released some years ago. I’m not a fan of regulator like indications, but that’s just a matter of taste but for all of me I can’t understand the date at 6 which totally unbalances the dial and has nothing to do in such a timepiece.
The Queen of Naples was also presented with a new dial:
The designers at Breguet were in a regulateur mood and prepared an automatic regulateur tourbillon. The tourbillon bridge has been nicely redone compared to the previous models but the screws on each side of the bridge would have looked much better if polished rather than blued.
A very interesting new watch was the Type 21 chronograph with 24 hour indicator (in case you are not quite sure if you’re supposed to be having breakfast or dinner) and an ingenious central minute chronograph counter. A very interesting watch both aesthetically and functionally.
Next step took us to the booth of a brand which unexpectedly has become the talk of the town: Harry Winston.
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