by Ian Skellern
(c) February 2006
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Time aeon: a new alliance of independent watchmakers . . . but why?
'Watchmaker': irrespective of the high skill level involved, is it a misnomer? I wonder what small percentage of watchmakers actually make
watches. And I refer to physically ‘making’ rather than assembling a pre-fabricated kit. ‘Watch mechanic or engineer’ may be a more
accurate title; after all, nobody expects a highly skilled car mechanic to be able to design and manufacture an engine piece by piece
and he does not refer to himself as a car constructor!
Over the last decade or two, the world of haute-horologie has gone from strength to strength, with both volume and value of sales
increasing year on year. The result has been an ongoing, acute shortage of watchmakers with watch schools and training institutions
making great efforts to meet the voracious appetite of the brands for trained staff. However, the companies are not after large numbers
of craftsman who can actually make a watch; they need people who can assemble watches and/or repair watches quickly by replacing
parts - not by fabricating them. Theses are certainly very valuable skills in themselves; however, is it really true ‘watchmaking’?
No surprise then, that in this golden epoch for the Swiss watch industry, when increasing numbers of ever more expensive and ever more
complicated watches are sold, and discerning collectors are appreciating that traditional horological art and craft creates real value, that
the art and craft so sought after - and often mass-marketed - is itself fast disappearing.
These men, independent creators of some of the finest contemporary timepieces on the planet, are all very different; however, they all share the same fundamental concerns. These include: a feeling of isolation; a lack of creative and technological synergies; a steady loss of watchmaking craftsmanship and knowledge; the constant reduction in highly skilled and motivated master watchmakers; the desire for future development: and the desire that watchmaking is fully recognized as its own art form. “I think that Time aeon is a proactive way to perpetuate and transmit the know-how and the tradition of haute horlogery with watchmakers who share my values and ethical views.“ says Vianney Halter. " We are not competitors; it is out duty to share our knowledge."
"One of the aims of Time aeon is to allowing young watchmakers to perfect their techniques by working in different ateliers." explains
Martial Fragnière
Time aeon is structured as the umbrella group for three separate entities: Alliance, Heritage and Enterprise.
1. The Time aeon Alliance is designed as framework where members their share knowledge and skills; it will also facilitate the training of the next
generation of master craftsmen with a program where selected watchmakers work and train among the alliance’s members. Philippe Dufour
is president of Time aeon Alliance.
2. Time aeon Heritage is tasked with safeguarding the precious knowledge, craft and philosophy that the alliance’s members possess;
guaranteeing that the know-how will be perpetuated and available into future. Kari Voutilainen heads Time aeon Heritage.
3. Time aeon Enterprise is a company that pays for it all. The first two entities are non-profit making, ensuring that ethics and craft come before all
else. However,
the members are also well aware that the best of intentions count for nothing; it is results that count and for their aims to be realized they
will need hard cash. To raise the financing for Alliance and Heritage, the members will create exclusive models bearing the Time aeon stamp;
Time aeon Enterprise will be in charge of the marketing and distribution of these watches. Martial Fragnière is the CEO of Time aeon Enterprise.
“Being very grateful to those who freely shared their knowledge and passion for watch making with me early in my career, I see Time Aeon as
the means through which l may return something to this marvellous profession which brings me so much satisfaction.” Stephen Forsey
It should be stressed that Time aeon is not intended to be a brand in itself, but a vehicle, which will collectively carry the individual member’s
brands further than they can go alone.
Modeling themselves on the old craft-guilds, the founders call themselves, “Watchmaker Companions”; a name embodying the fundamental
values of companionship as it was practiced in days gone by - specifically in the transmission of expertise and values; however - now adapted
to the realities of the 21st century.
"Young watchmakers know very well how to manipulate
“I was teaching watchmaking soon after finishing my own watchmaking training in Finland, sharing the secrets of complicated movements
while working at Parmigiani before teaching once more at WOSTEP.
There will be those that compare Time aeon to the existing association of independent watchmakers - the AHCI - and question what this new
alliance brings that cannot already be carried out under the AHCI umbrella.
The two organizations are not mutually exclusive; indeed the majority of Time aeon’s founders are either present members, or associate
members, of the AHCI. Whereas the AHCI exists primarily to provide a platform for members to exhibit together i.e., the Basel exhibition,
Time Aeon’s purpose is to provide a structure where members can share and perpetuate their knowledge and craft.
Ideally, both enterprises will flourish, bringing forth a renaissance in the appreciation of the art and craft of the independent watchmaker.
Ian Skellern - February 2006
Copyright February 2006 - Ian Skellern & ThePuristS.com - all rights
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